Wednesday, August 20, 2014

#sirsimonsays

I have been keeping track of the delightful utterances of our esteemed leaders for Coro. They shall be catalogued and shared at a later date. For today, it involved my dear colleague Justine, a diminuitive lady who gets to sing a few WONDERFULLY clarion yell/sing solos, to whom Sir Simon referred as "the bonsai Brünnhilde".

Rehearsing with a venerated member of the Western Art Music community has been a little surreal - mostly because it feels strangely normal. I would like to hope it's that though I understand the honor and privilege - I afford the same respect to most conductors (until, say, something happens that their favor is lost with me...like condescending assholery, tantrums, or any action designed to demean players).  Sir Simon Rattle is charming, has great ears, and his absolute joy in making music with us is infectious.

In gushy news of a non-musical-type, I have the best host family, ever. A few days ago, after the failed adventure to Landi (a store comparable to Farm & Fleet, or Menards), I explained to Heinz what had happened and that our mission was unfinished. He said he'd check to see if Landi even had cowbells, and would price them for me. Fast forward to this morning, when Susi mentioned that she had called the Landi and confirmed, yes, they do have cowbells. She offered to drive me to the branch nearby(that is less accessible by bus) - so, I took my very first ride on a moped (Susi's beautiful blue manual-shift Vespa).

The bells I bought are simple, but sturdy and beautiful steel. And sound great!  Fast forward again to this evening, when Susi sees me, and explains that apparently, Heinz had the same idea as us, and went to another Landi and just bought me a bell as a gift. So, I now have enough cow bells (in three sizes; they make a nice chord).  This family is the SWEETEST. I don't know what I'm going to be able to do to thank them. I feel so welcome.

Since it was a bit of a cool day, and Dwight asked, I spent some time repetiteusing in the Obergrundstrasse building this afternoon - a string of people came in and out, and we found songs to play between my tablet and others' folders of sheet-music. Two hours passed in my near-favorite way: sightreading and getting to experience others' artistry and voices through the ephemeral "collaboration" of reading music. Good thing most of 'em know Schubert and too bad some of the songs they know are too hard for meeeeee.

With only a few days left, I'm going to have to spend my time and remaining francs wisely!

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Und meine Seele spannte

Week 2 in Luzern is coming to a close, and I'm happy to report I'm feeling more comfortable in my surroundings.

The last few days have included a lot of socializing and work in a generally rainy town - though, I did get take a long Spaziergang along the north side of the lake on Wednesday evening (it was VERY windy...but the swans and various duck types didn't seem to mind). Otherwise, I've had some lovely evenings out with some of the singers here - a stand-up bunch. A few days ago, it was beautiful out, and some of us went paddleboating on the lake - so lovely!  Otherwise, rehearsals are now complete prior to working with Sir Simon Rattle. . .we'll meet him on Monday, I believe (or perhaps tomorrow? We are often unsure what's going on other than we must show up places at certain times...)  My anticipation mounts.


In other news, last night was the opening concert of the Lucerne Festival, which began with a memoriam of Claudio Abbado. Though the remarks were in German, I did catch the part where he quoted what may be one of my FAVORITE poems - Eichendorff's "Mondnacht":
Und meine Seele spannte
Weit ihre Flügel aus
Flog durch die stillen Lande
Als flöge sie nach Haus.

(...and my soul spread
its wings out broadly
Flying over the quiet land
as if flying home).

It was the first time I teared up for the evening. Two other speakers followed him (one of whom was very important, as he had a caped/hatted guard with him ON STAGE, and a gentleman who was speaking very enthusiastically about the power of Music). After this and a pause, the evening continued with Andris Nelsons my new favorite everything conducting an all-Brahms program.
Our seats were in the Orgelempore, so I got to watch the orchestra from behind (and see all the marvelous gestures, faces, and movements the Maestro made...which were plentiful and delightful).
After the opening Serenade, Sara Mingardo sang the Alto Rhapsody, which prompted cry #2 for the night - the men's chorus is like a mystical, comforting hand on one's shoulder.
I had utterly forgotten that Brahms' Second Symphony was one of my old favorite works in undergrad - and when it began, so did the waterworks up in the organ loft. I was just a mess. Nelsons seemed to be having just the best time, and the orchestra seemed overjoyed to follow him (it is a magnificent ensemble).



Random notes - Barbara Hannigan who is everything amazing and good stopped by rehearsal the other day and introduced herself. I cannot WAIT for tonight's concert where she'll perform a signature piece, the Ligeti Mysteries of the Macabre...I'm off to purchase a ticket jetzt.

Monday, August 11, 2014

Luzern Bahnhof

...is the name of the train station at which I first landed in Luzern. It is a large railway depot - I think there are at least 10 tracks? There are a few shops and restaurants above ground - but the underground part is where things are HAPPENING. There's a Bachmann (like on every other corner of Luzern), a COOP grocery which is a lifesaver after 6p, and several tourist stops and food/beer selling places.

Tonight, while searching for a wine I chose...poorly... in the "Drinks of the World" store, I met a lovely shop-worker named Marie. We chatted briefly about rock bands. I had asked who was playing on the shop's speaker, and it was Gogol Bordello (it was a less vocal-centered track, so the telltale Eugene Hutz voice didn't tip me off).  Luzerners seem pretty enthusiastic about the Festival - the KKL (pronounced "Ka-Ka-Ell", at least by the Swiss folk around here...) is a pride of the country. It is beautiful in glass, metal, and water (inside and out), though from a distance by boat it has a bit of a fishing-shanty appearance (flat dark roof, and the glass outer walls just look dark from far away).  It is undoubtedly one of the nicest halls in the world to perform in, I've been told (and will find out next week for myself!!), and is beautiful up close with the fountain, the Vierwaldstättsee, and the Bahnhof surrounding it.

All week, I've been riding the 7 bus, to and from my host family's stop (Sternmatt, slightly downhill; Rodtegg, slightly uphill). Riders are usually hushed-to-silent, and there's an honor-code about buying tickets. (Granted, to be caught without a ticket gets you a 100CHF ticket, which would suuuuuuck). It is an amazingly civilized atmosphere - the bus stations indicate when the next bus on each line is arriving, and they are generally on time (and come every 7-10 minutes, on my line).

Amazingly civilized too is the street. Walking on busy streets around downtown - it's usually pretty quiet, and there is little eye contact or stranger-interaction (I have witnessed only a few instances of harassment - of companions with me - in the Bahnhof area). Most people aren't extremely smiley or friendly, just...neutral har har I made a funny about the Swiss. But seriously - everything seems to be on an even keel, and civilized - down to the following of pedestrian crosswalks. Imagine my shock, then, to witness a yelling argument between an (older?) woman and a middle-aged dude on the next bus platform over earlier tonight. I have no idea what either was saying, but she was LAUT. Und she was talking animatedly with two other people sitting on benches waiting for the bus (in addition to getting up in the guy's face).  After a week in Luzern, this seemed odd, and I immediately thought "she must be foreign or mentally ill".

This, after witnessing a yelling fight between customer and staff in the KC Ward Avenue Verizon Store under two weeks ago. Didn't even faze me then.

It's weird living in a tourist-destination city (I haven't before). . .I am not sure what the attitude toward tourists really is - as retail folk, restaurant folk, and basically everyone else is polite and will try to speak English. Especially when, like me, you struggle, and are shy-to-silent for fear of speaking badly what a silly attitude I have!  I personally get annoyed when people don't walk with a purpose, which seems a hallmark of tourism..."Walking slowly in unpredictable directions in Liz's way". I got places to BE.

Today's places: FIRST TUTTI REHEARSAL OMG Y GZ. I galoshed through a damp morning commute to the Obergrundstrasse building - and took my spot "stage right". It was indescribable to hear the other parts. Just, Damn. Berio.

After rehearsal, bought a bag of Tagessalat (which includes the tiniest strings of carrot and BEET YES) and went home to eat/escape the rain.  Decided to visit the music store, where I saw mandolins and Blockflöten advertised. . .it did not disappoint, except a sale-mandolin had already sold. BooooooooooooI didn't need it right now.

The lady at the desk was very kind to let me play a few alto, tenor, and bass-recorders (made of palisander, rosewood, birnbaum -pear!, ebony, and other beautiful materials).  I felt a little badly not buying - but identical instruments can be found for half the price in UK/US. Even the ones made in Schweitz (Kurg?).  I just wanted to know what it felt like to hold a nice, non-soprano recorder. As much as I'd love to learn mandolin, I have this feeling that my hands are just hardwired to pick up wind instruments of the recorder/clarinet variety.  Tenor is a bit of a stretch (the holes are fairly far apart, and increasing the distance between one's middle and ring fingertips is not always comfortable) - but the sound is so, so good.

It's a financial goal to work towards - affording an instrument and a teacher...


//boring navel gazing ahoy

The argument could be made that it's a distraction I should avoid.  Happily, I'm getting better at filtering the "should" things out.  Who knows what I should do?

I -need- to help pay rent so I don't bankrupt my favorite guy. I -need- to make excellent music and be around others who do the same. I -need- to have contact with my family - blood and chosen.

I -want- to keep playing, and improving, at multiple instruments. I -want- to visit beautiful places and observe how people live. I -want- never to drive to a gig again.

I -should- finish my doctorate. At the same time, I -should- give myself some time out of school and away from constant academia to gain better clarity into what I need and want as a musician.


What -will- I do?





Sunday, August 10, 2014

Weggis

We had a day off today! Some folks hiked up Mt. Pilatus. I would likely have joined them, but I made plans to meet a lovely friend who lives in Frick, Schweitz, here in Luzern. She had brought another flute friend, and the three of us chatted amongst picture taking sessions along the lakeside. We walked through the far part of the Old Town, past an amateur Carnaval band. . .I forget the name. Gugge-band?

Adventure one for the day: taking a boat from Luzern to Weggis and back - stopping for coffee and kuchen (in my case, white chocolate cake) in the town of Weggis before catching the ferry home. The lake offers the most beautiful views - including some distant snowcapped mountains behind the green-capped mountains in front!  The day was growing very warm - but before the ladies caught their train home, we had just enough time for me to take them to Löwenplatz - both really enjoyed seeing the memorial monument (and the gift shop antique store near it).

After they left, I was feeling a little gekocht, so I picked up some groceries at the COOP in the train station (bread, cheese sampler, salad, and peanuts) - and went home to rest through the warmth. I have this problem here where I feel guilty for sitting inside and doing little - but my legs have been hurting the last few days, so I took it easy for an hour before venturing back out to swim.

Adventure two for the day: SWIMMING in the Vierwaldstättersee - Lake Lucerne.  Not quite as rocky as Lago Maggiore - the beach is sand instead of pebble. However, it's still a painful walk in, and COLD.  SO cold. And perfect for the slightly sunburnt.  I was happy to find a handful of other choristers already there, so I could leave my things near friends who were sunbathing. Another group showed up, and after swimming a bit, we went in search of food. This was the Pilatus hiking group, who were all a little zombied from physical effort up a MOUNTAIN. 

I didn't have enough cash left for the day, so I sat with them while they ate the food from Sky Asia take-away. . .and went home to more salad, cheese, and peanuts. And a beer Chelsea recommended - Unser Bier's Schwartzbier (from Basel!)

And now, I'm enjoying an extended IMessage conversation with my dear Gary. It's been too many days. 

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Regenschirm

I didn't bring an umbrella with, as I hate carrying things around when it's not absolutely necessary.

Fortunately for me, the rain held off until after I got home, so all is well!

Another day, another rehearsal. I downloaded (thank you, IMSLP) some Fibich and Grieg lyric pieces today, in order to humble myself at the piano by sightreading though I cheated by skipping the fast ones. After a very long week of rehearsals singing high and quiet and loud and high and all manner of non-vibrato, my voice needed a break. My mind, however, needed its daily exercise, so it was a welcome practice session.  I still have some, um, work to do.

It was a nice lazy afternoon, as the sopranos are doing so well we were released early. I went home to get swimming stuff, but faced with the reality that solo, I'd have to leave my bus ticket/towel/underthings unattended on shore. . .I decided to wait 'til there's a group to swim. Instead, I caught up on email, and got prettied up to go get beer at the Rathaus local brewery!

Before going to the Rathaus, I decided to try to find the Löwenplatz - the (as I found it to be) enormous sculpture of a wounded lion, carved into a rock face in the old part of Luzern. It is a commemoration of the Swiss Guardsmen who died around August 10, 1792 during a battle of the French Revolution (I wasn't aware it was the anniversary tomorrow. . .222 years). It is so huge, and surrounded by a peaceful pond (near some touristy shops).  Tonight, it was also host to a live hip hop duo, rapping in German(?Swiss?) I made my way quickly back to the Rathaus, as crowds with beer in plastic cups isn't generally my thing.

I got to meet a bunch more of the men of the choral ensemble - it was a lovely evening of too much food and beer and cameraderie. . .we ended up at the lake bar near the KKL, which was full of people and still fun, but I saw the distant flashes of lightning and since my commute is far, I thought it would be best to leave. I was right!

Side note - I love getting to leave the windows open all the time, even if it means the moths and mosquitos are my evening friends.


Friday, August 8, 2014

Rodtegg

That's the name of the stop I live near. I'm starting to memorize them...this was going to be a nice post but the moths and bugs are attracted to light sources and keep flying at my head and I hate it so it'll be brief.

I walked to town/rehearsal today, which was nice - it was just glorious out all day.  After rehearsal (we finally finished the piece!) a group of us walked to the beach, and I decided to catch the bus home to get my swimsuit...and after a series of mishaps, I made it back, only to find the group was leaving due to the immense dark clouds gathering and climbing over Mt. Pilatus. We split up to find food, and I went with the lovely Meghan over to the old town to the Rathaus.
As it was packed, we wandered around until it started to rain and then ended up at the old faithful Bahnhof for food. It was a good time - except when we were kicked off of the table we were seated at because whoops it was part of a "restaurant", though it is marked as a take-away place. Our bad.

Came home and have been trying to be productive - organizing Q repertoire for this season, trolling facebook for the latest news on the building collapse down the street from our apt. building, killing moths with the very hot halogen bulb in the floor lamp. It's been low-key there's a burning smell. Ew.

A bit of fun though - I may get to explore Zürich on Sunday with my soundSCAPE housemate Chelsea. We'll see!

One more rehearsal 'til the real Frei Tag!


Thursday, August 7, 2014

"This wine is from Napa Valley"

My host family said that as a joke as they poured me some lovely (Italian?) wine. . .I'm not sure what the reputation of CA wines is in Switzerland, but my guess, as they mentioned they did drink it often when they were young is - not good.  They invited me to eat dinner with them, which was fajitas. Susi uses the same Old El Paso kit that my mom used to make mexikanischer food in my childhood who am I kidding I make it too. That is delicious. 

The son of the household, Y., doesn't speak as much english and his mom translated a little. I heard him say somethingsomethingscheisse - and apparently he was unhappy that the tablet computer his new apprenticeship gave him was a Samsung. Between his dad and us, we started calling it the ScheissePad I'll need to use that one at some point.  

It was so nice to get to chat with the family a little more - about their friend in the circus (Speedy, the "Lilliput"...please tell me that isn't the pc term in Schweitz); about their Fiat Cinque-cento that needs to be pushed to start; about my family's weirdnesses like how I know JJ would appreciate me bringing an alphorn or alp-cow-bell home as a souvenir; about the different tourist groups' traits in the Schwanenplatz (buying thousands of CHF worth of watches and jewelry...really? who has money anymore?!?)

Later, had a productive and needed talk with some good friends about future plans with an excellent group. . .we'll be unstoppable. Then, I caught a late bus to the Bahnhof where all the shops are open late, and replenished my stock if by replenishing I mean getting the family-sized-not-fucking-around-bag of Haribo Goldbären at the COOP store. And a can of cheapass prosecco. "Blusecco" I believe. Not as good as last night's can of Ramseier cider, but that was nowhere to be found tonight. It wouldn't have fit well in my coat pocket anyway. . .

I'm getting really good at awkward pauses before remembering it's "Guten Tag" here...not buongiorno, not bonjour, not ANYTHING STARTING WITH THE LETTER B GOD DAMN LIZ. "Guten Tag."
"Guten Tag."

I am also getting really good at somewhat annoyedly saying "Entschuldigung, bitte..." to people in my way. Mostly though, I get gun-shy about screwing up my German, say nothing, and point to things. I am 3 years old here. But hey, I got my spumoni-trio of himbeer/pistache/chocolat macarons today. I haven't starved to death or gravely insulted anyone. And I have a few more weeks to practice. . .